No idea where to find rare parts for your model?

1. Regularly check local stores and malls for sales/special offers. Buy anything you can afford and get for cheap.

2. Check for useful stuff.

3. Buy single new or used Lego-elements at

4. Visit Lego Direct (Shop-at-home) and look for bulk items or other needful stuff.


Welcome to the Frequently Asked Questions! Later updates will be marked blue.

Q: Primus, do you work for LEGO?
A: No comment :P

Q: How old are you really? And how comes you still play with LEGO?!
A: My true age is a secret! And I actually wouldn't call "playing" what I'm doing on my site. Usually I even don't touch physical LEGO-pieces when I make a new model. It's maybe not art or something I'm creating, but I think a combination of artistic and engeneering skills is certainly required. Ok, it's just plastic I'm working with, but even the painting colors Picasso once used are made mostly of dirt ;)

Q: Why don't you sell your designs to The LEGO Group?
A: The LEGO Group is not interested in Battletech.

Q: Where can I purchase those ´Mechs?
A: Not from me. I don't have the time nor the money, not even the interest to start a LEGO-mech assembly line. Even without making profit it would be too expensive and difficult to find all the parts in needed quantities and colors.

Q: Where can I get building instructions?
A: Download the files from my DOWNLOAD-page and de-compress (unzip) them. Open the DAT-files with DAT-viewing software like MLCad. You'll notice I have spent a lot of time by sorting the parts in the right order and creating building steps ... The view-mode of MLCad enables you to use the DAT-files as building instructions, just like printed instructions from LEGO-sets.

Q: What is MLCad and where can I get it?
A: MLCad is a freeware Lego-CAD (computer aided design) program, created by Michael Lachmann. Head straight this way. READ the installation instructions AND the tutorial. Follow them patiently. Then it will work. Don't complain to me if it's not working, because my reply will be: "READ the installation instructions and the tutorial ...."

Q: Why is MLCad not working on my comp?
A: Most likely you just failed to read or to follow the instructions. MLCad does not forgive mistakes you made during installation, and will refuse to work until you got everything right. I'm always willing to help, though it might be a better idea to mail the author of MLCad, Michael Lachmann, about any problem you encountered. I also *URGENTLY* recommend to read the TUTORIAL for MLCad! Last time I checked it was availible in 7 different languages:

Q: Why don't I see building steps, only the complete model?!
A: *smile* Because you didn't read the TUTORIAL! Use F2 and F3 to change from edit to view-mode of MLCad and back. And read the fu**ing tutorial NOW!

Q: Is MLCad availible for Macintoshs?
A: No. But you can still use"Brickdraw" instead:

Q: What does ".zip" mean? I can't open your battlemech-files ...
A: Files with ".zip" or ".rar"-extension are compressed files, files reduced in size. You need a special program like "winzip" to unpack the files. Free software is availible on the net, i.e. here:

Q: Is there another way to get building instructions?
A: No. It would mean too much work to create and edit thousands of images ... though technically it's not a problem. I'm just not up for it. Maybe I'll make some instructions in the future. But certainly not for all 'Mechs. I recommend you get MLCad running on your comp. This way you have access to ALL models, as well as to other people's creations.

Q: Where do I find all the right parts I need?
A: Touchy subject. Unless you already got a TON of Lego, you have to be prepared to spend a pile, rather a mount of bucks on new sets. Obviously, there are different ways of obtaining Lego, though buying used bricks on flea-markets is cheaper than purchasing mostly new Lego. I usually place orders with a german online-retailer, whose prices are well 25-35% below the criminal officially suggested prices. I also always look for sales and check ebay or other online-auctions/shops for useful stuff. Generally, you have to have a wide range of parts in order to build 'Mechs - if your collection consists mostly of SPACE-stuff you'll have trouble locating certain types of sloped bricks quite common with CASTLE .... When buying new sets you'll realize some of them come with more useful parts than others. Any set that contains many slopes and wedged elements is good. Inexpensive example from the current production line: A-Wing Fighter (LOTS of slopes and good elements) and STAR WARS in general. Also check out the "Alpha Team cruiser"

Q: How do i learn about older sets and their content?
A: At you can find catalog- and instruction scans. Furthermore, can tell you which parts were availible in which set/year/color/number. The listing isn't complete though, but it's a great help.

Q: How do you make the pictures of your ´Mechs?
A: I use the free 3D-rendering software "POV-Ray": It creates photo-realistic images from a DAT-file. The files have to be converted by "L3P" before POV-Ray can read them though:

Q: How long does it take you to design a ´Mech?
A: Usually 1-2 days, depending on the size of the model, with a couple of hours of work on each day. On the following day I think about a color scheme or fix the already existing one, render a few images, and shortly before the release of the model (which actually can be weeks after the model's creation) I add building steps to the DAT-file/instructions.

Q: How do you build the models?
A: Mostly "on screen" by using MLCad. Only some of my models have been built with physical Lego before I created a DAT-file. After studying all materiel I could find about a new model, I always start creating the head and torso by figuring out how large/wide the model has to be. It is a good idea to make the head/center torso at least 4 studs wide - almost all canopy parts/windscreens are of that size. For a humanoid heavy mech the left and right side of the torso probably has to be 4 or 5 studs wide. You need to have a keen "eye" for proportions (the relations in size of one part to another), otherwise the legs or arms will be too short or long, or the torso will be too big or too small, causing the whole model to look ... wrong. After I got more than 2 single body parts of the new 'Mech, I start assembling the whole model by creating a "MPD"-file. This is a DAT-file containing other DAT-files. When I do changes to one of those sub-models, the effect of these changes is shown on the whole model. Then I go on and make legs, arms, whatever, and add them too. In the end I have a complete model. I'm doing this for almost 2 years now, one new model each week, and I've got so much routine I hardly ever have to scrap a concept or do major changes to a model, saving a lot of time this way.

Q: How do you get all of the specific pieces to make the models?
A: Usually by cannibalizing purchased sets. I never purchase new sets at full retail price though. Other options are online-auctions like ebay, or online-shops selling single Lego-elements, like those you can find through , you could also try the official LEGO Shop-at-home:

Q: How much does it cost to make an average mech?
A: Hard to say - depends on how many parts you still need and how much you have to pay in order to get them. If you are lucky you may be able buy a large box of Lego on a flea-market for cheap. Maybe it even includes all required parts. I think a Madcat made of new Lego would cost at least US$ 100,- for parts ... that doesn't include the time required to find the rare parts, nor the time required to assemble the model.

Q: Why are the dat-files for the buildings not availble?
A: The buildings are just pieces of scenery, without internal support structure. In order to keep the file size small (and rendering times low) they don't even have rear walls. The models also don't have building steps. Anyway I doubt you really have that many wedged bricks you would need in order to create the side walls of the clan administration building ... :P

Q: Do your ´Mechs actually move?
A: Hell no. I'm more than happy when I finally got them standing straight and well balanced, without toppling over. Or, if the model is CAD-only so far, when I BELIEVE it is well balanced .... Some of the models are more poseable than others though, i.e. the Nexus: because of its light weight, the model is pretty poseable. Don't forget my models are ... models, not toys.

Q: Am I allowed to use images from this site for my own website?
A: Of course. Please make sure you add a model info like "model created by Primus BuS" and a link to my site.

Q: How did you make the leg joints/whatever of the *****?
A: Get MLCad and check out the DAT-files of the models. The different angles of view and the zoom-feature will reveal all secrets.

Q: Why haven't you built the ****-mech yet?
A: Oh, there are still 'Mechs left I haven't build yet? Hehe. Don't worry, if the model you look for is ANY good, chances are high it will make it on my site sooner or later.

Q: But, but ... The Jenner IIC doesn't have inverted knee joints!
A: Variants of 'Mechs showing up in video-games sometimes feature an appearance different from the originals displayed in technical readouts. The miniature of the Jenner IIC from Ral Partha, representing the original design, DOES have inverted knee joints. Proof on demand :)

Q: When I open one of your DATs, MLCad reports missing parts!
A: Either I forgot to update my "unofficial parts pack" or, more likely, you forgot to download and/or install it. I hope you have at least the original partlist installed ...

Q: Where do you receive the design references to make the 'Mechs?
A: In order to create a 3d-model by using Lego, you better have a 3d-model for reference. Pictures of a model, taken from different angles, are 2nd-best choice. You'll find TONS of images of painted Ral Partha-minis at Archer's Miniatures:

Q: Why can't I find a certain part in the color displayed on this site?
A: The part maybe doesn't exist in this color at all. When creating the color scheme of a new model, I don't care about a part's availability in the displayed color. With more than 100 'Mechs on this site, can you imagine how boring they would look if they all were dark & light grey? Or mostly red, which appears to be the most common color ...

Q: Why are all the images computer-generated?
A: Because I usually build the models on my comp. It's the easist and cheapest way for me, and I can make almost perfect images in a matter of seconds, from every angle I like, with as many and as large models I want.

Q: How big are the models?
A: The 'Mechs range from 20-35 centimeters.

Q: Can I send you images of the models I created and post them on your site?
A: So far they're Battletech - no problem. I'm just a little choosy about what I put on my site, image- and model-quality-wise. If you are looking for an opportunity to show your MOCs (My Own Creation) to others, I recommend to create a free gallery-account at Upload your pics (jpg and gif-format) and go fishing for compliments by posting about your new creation at !

Q: Why don't you build mecha and stuff other than Battletech?
A: Someday I maybe move on to other themes. So far walking battle machines are concerned, I stay with Battlemechs. I'm not at all interested in "Gungans" (or whatever ...) or other japanese-teenage-monster-ninja-mecha. I'm building Battlemechs cause I like Battletech. Though I never played the board game, I got all computer games and read all novels ever released.